Reporting Spam to Google, Yahoo, Microsoft and AOL

Spam is continuing to prove to be a huge problem. It’s not always a simple task to report spammers, but the more we do, the harder we make it for them. It would be useful if it was easier to report spam, and if some providers didn’t keep changing their reporting procedures, meaning that those searching for answers end up with dead links, and going around in circles.

Firstly, some spam statistics

The amount of spam which clogs-up the internet is staggering. It causes so many problems, such as wasted time (try adding up how much time you spend deleting/blocking spam), spreads viruses, scams people of their money, and just up vast amounts of technological resources that could be better used.

For the week ending 15th January 2012:
• India sent 13.6% of the worlds spam
• Russia sent 8.8%
• Veitnam: 7.1%

• In 2010, around 294 billion spam emails were sent daily
• Only around 200 – 300 people are responsible for this spam
• Spam is worth the risk and effort. Let’s say spammers are hitting 15 million email addresses, and just 1% of those open the email, that’s 150,000. Now say just .1% respond, that’s 150. People can be stung for hundreds of pounds a time by spammers, so the pay-offs do, sadly, add up. Just .01% of that 294 billion emails equals 29,400,00 – Blimey!
• Just opening an email can make the spammers money, and lets them know that your email address is active – prepare yourself for more spam

Reporting spam from a gmail account to Google

‘I would like to report a Gmail user who has sent messages that violate the Gmail Program Policies and/or Terms of Use.’

Google has a pretty straight-forward reporting form. Links are below.

http://support.google.com/mail/bin/request.py?hl=en&contact_type=abuse

http://support.google.com/mail/bin/topic.py?hl=en&topic=1668978&rd=2

Yahoo! Abuse Help Topics: Report SPAM or Phishing

Yahoo’s reporting is alos nicely straight-forward.

https://help.yahoo.com/kb/mail-for-desktop

Reporting Spam to Microsoft – Hotmail, Live and MSN

Reporting to Microsoft depends upon which address the spam is coming from. You should address an email to report_spam@hotmail.com, report_spam@msn.com or report_spam@live.com (Depending on the originating mail domain: hotmail or msn or live).

Be sure to include the full email header

http://windowslivehelp.com/solution.aspx?solutionid=e1e87293-909f-45e9-9dcd-920a04719bc3

Report an email as spam to AOL

Just one email address this time: abuse@aol.com. Again, be sure to include the full email header.

http://help.aol.com/help/microsites/microsite.do?cmd=displayKC&docType=kc&externalId=218748

What if those links or email addresses no longer work? Or the spam is from a different address?

As time goes on, the email companies will redesign their sites, breaking links and changing email addresses.

You can try the following address to find the correct place to report spam: http://abuse.net/. http://www.spamcop.net/ is also a good place to try, as it http://www.m86security.com/labs/submitting.asp

I really can’t be bothered though

I hear you, I do, but a little effort on everyone’s part makes the difference. I’ve had persistent spam from a couple of address and trying to block them via SpamAssassin on my email account without success. I went straight to the providers where it was coming from, and zap! I never had another from those addresses. That means no one else is either.

Have I convinced you yet?

Although it does take a little effort of your part, it does make a difference. You’ll notice it yourself hopefully. Meanwhile, the movers and shakers in the internet world are continuing to make it harder for spammers, and make it easier for you to report.

Print Finishing

Foil Blocking

Foil Blocking, sometimes called Hot Foil Blocking, or simply Foiling is a similar method to letter-pressing. The block of the image is heated and used to brand a metallic or coloured foil on the item. This usually gives an embossing effect.

Thermography Printing

Thermography gives a raised print finish. A special powdered polymer is deposited onto the paper and then heat is applied. The heat causes a reaction in the polymer, bonding it to the paper and making it expand slightly, making it raised.

Spot UV

Spot UV is a term giving to the process of layering a varnish onto a (usually) already printed product, sometimes it can be applied onto an item without other printing to give a nice, elegant finish.

The varnish is usually applied as a spot (small areas,) and gives a nice, glossy finish.

Metallic Inks

These special inks are best used sparingly and for simple additions to the work, it may struggle to keep to complex elements due to the viscosity of the ink. They can look very stylish and elegant if used well, or can look cheap and tacky if not. Less is most certainly more.

Trimming

Nice and simple, trimming / guillotining excess edges off printed work. Nearly all printed matter will have printer registration marks, unwanted whitespace and so on that will need to be trimmed off. Flyers and the like may be printed on large sheets which then need cutting up.

Folding

Nothing fancy here. It’s literally folding the paper. There are lots of very common folds to achieve various results for leaflets etc.

Stitching

Applied to the spine of a document to hold it together. There are different types of stitches suitable for different applications.

Stapling

Just as it says. The simplest way to join some pages together. Suitable for most small jobs.

Perfect Binding

Perfect binding is a book-like binding, using either thread to stitch the pages together or hot-glue. Accompanied by a full cover.

Wiro Binding

There are plastic and metal versions of this binding. A cheap and simple way of combining pages though not as rugged as perfect binding. Home / Office binding machines are affordable though may not give such a professional look.

Lamination

Professional lamination will be trimmed so you want end up with over-hang as you might be used to if you’ve ever laminated something yourself. Matt and gloss is available. you may not even be aware of a matt lamination but it does give a nice smooth, professional finish.

Embossing / Debossing

Embossing – towards you (out); Debossing – away from you (in).

The same technique but done from different sides of the paper. Very commonly used on book dust-covers, raising the authors name and book title.

Die-cutting

Using a pre-made template (tool) the paper is cut. Complex of simple shapes can be made, e.g. a flyer which can be folded into a box, or shapes can be cut out of a page.

Kiss-cutting

Normally used for sheets or rolls of stickers, where the die-cut tool cuts through the sticker but just ‘kisses’ the paper backing, keeping the sheets / rolls together.

Micro Perforations

Often used for items which can be pushed out of a larger piece of paper, or when something needs to be able to be torn off. Like stamps before Royal Mail made them self-adhesive.

Creasing

Add pre-creases to your item to make folding of it easier.

Mounting

Photographic prints and the like can be mounted, usually onto special mounting board, to give a lightweight, inflexible method of displaying.

Printing Methods, Techniques & Processes

There are a bewildering array of printing methods and processes available, more than you think. You may have even seen some nice design work, business cards or something and thought ‘That’s nice. So how have they done that?’

Well, I hope that by pointing out some of the common printing methods and finishes you’ll know what to ask for and a little about how it was done. I must stress that you’ll know ‘a little’ as there’s too much to go into here (those of you who really know your printing processes may shudder at my rather blunt descriptions.) This is more of a guide to uses and what end product you can expect.

Screen Printing

Screen printing uses a squeegee to push ink through a mesh screen on which there is a stencil. This can really give a nice end result, but don’t expect nice clean lines. Not suitable for work with lots of detail, this gives a nice bold finish and each colour is added separately. The colours seldom line up together, over-lapping or leaving slight gaps. A great retro finish.

Laser Printing

You will have used one of these at some point in your life, photocopiers work on the same principles. In simple terms, a laser is fired at a photoreceptor cylinder, creating a static electric image on it. This surface is exposed to toner (a mix of plastic powder and colour agent) which attracts the fine particles. This cylinder is then rolled over the paper, transferring the toner from the cylinder to the paper. Multiple passes are used when the print involves the use of colour. A pass for each of the toner cartridges, hence the longer time required to print colour images.

The paper is passed through a fuser assembly which heats up the paper and toner so that the plastic within the toner melts and bonds to the paper.

Inkjet Printing

Another printer type that you will have used, and possibly been frustrated with. As the paper is passed through the printer, the print-head holding the different ink cartridges (usually 4, CMYK) passes left to right, depositing tiny spots of ink from each colour cartridge in the relevant quantities required to generate the required colours.

Heat-Transfer Printing

A technique that you will have seen used on t-shirts. The image is either printed onto or made out of a material that when heated, will bond to the item. There’s lots of different types of materials that can be heat-transferred, such as embroidered patches, vinyl lettering and DIY heat-transfers where using an Inkjet printer you print the images on the substrate and then apply the image to a t-shirt using an iron.

Woodblock / Woodcut Printing

A precursor to the letter-press technique, woodblock printing is essentially the same idea. This method was used around the 18th Century in different parts of the world. A block of wood, often beechwood or cherry wood in Japan, would be engraved, removing the elements which were to remain white (unprinted) and leaving the areas to be printed untouched and level. Ink would be applied to the surface before the block was then stamped or pressed onto the material that was to receive the print.

Incredible detail is possible and this technique could quite feasibly be used as laser engraving means that blocks can be produced easily and quite cheaply.

Letterpress Printing

As woodblock printing, the method is quite similar though the ‘blocks’ are made up of individual type pieces or specially made decorative elements that are assembled and held together in a frame.

The frame and paper would be placed in the inked-up press and rollers transfer the ink onto the paper. Again, the use of more than one colour would usually require another frame unless you were going for some interesting effect.

Offset Printing

The image is first transferred (offset) onto a rubber sheet from an etched plate. This image is then offset onto the paper. The technique is used for newspapers, magazines etc. when high-speed, large runs and consistent quality is needed. Commonly used with Lithography Printing (See below)

Lithography Printing

Lithography uses simple chemical processes to create an image onto a plate. Lithography works because of the mutual repulsion of oil and water. A photographic negative of the desired image is placed in contact with emulsion and the plate is exposed to ultraviolet light. The image on the plate emulsion can also be created by direct laser imaging in a CTP.

The plate is affixed to a cylinder on a printing press. Dampening rollers apply water, which covers the blank portions of the plate but is repelled by the emulsion of the image area. Ink, which is hydrophobic, is then applied by the inking rollers, which is repelled by the water and only adheres to the emulsion of the image area. A rubber blanket squeezes away excess water.

Pad Printing

Pad printing is used to print onto objects, such as promotional gifts, where traditional printing methods would be unable to handle the item that is receiving the image.

The process uses a ‘pad’ that is shaped for it’s intended substrate. The pad is stamped on to a plate with the engraved image, depositing the ink on the pad. The pad then stamps the image on the object.

Thermographic Printing

Thermographic printing is achieved by using a thermographic/embossing powder, made from plastic resins. The areas selected for raised printing are printed with slow-drying inks that do not contain dryers or hardeners so that they remain wet during the application of thermographic powder.

Excess powder is then removed, usually by use of a vacuum system before a radiant oven is then used to heat the remaining powder (resin), causing it to melt and bond to the substrate.

This process leaves a glossy, unevenly-raised print on the substrate.

Thermal Printing

Not to be confused with the above, this technique does use heat, but to cause a reaction in the special paper, thus creating the image.

The paper is specially developed to react to heat, most commonly shop till receipts, fax machine rolls and labels. Ever put a hot cup of coffee down on a fax and seen it’s a left a black impression of the bottom of the cup?

Only produces black and white images.

Flexography Printing

This method uses a flexible, 3D relief plate on a cylinder, again the image is transferred onto a substrate that passes over the cylinder. Typically this technique is used for printing onto non-porous surfaces such as plastic, and can produce continuous images, think wallpaper or wrapping paper.

The Anilox Roller makes Flexography unique. The Anilox Roller meters the predetermined ink that is transferred for uniform thickness. It has engraved cells that carry a certain capacity of inks that can only be seen with a microscope.

Lenticular Printing

You probably won’t know the name, but you will have seen this used. Do you remember those ‘animated’ pictures that were usually found as a give-away in cereal boxes? Well it’s that.

A lenticular is an array of magnifying lenses, designed so that when viewed from slightly different angles, different segments of the image below are magnified. S the technology has improved, more and more ‘frames’ can be included, producing much smoother animations.

Big brands have gone back to this technology in very recent times, producing large (A0) posters using this method. The effect can be quite stunning and can avoid seeming cheap/cliché.

Rotogravure Printing

Rotogravure cylinders are made of copper plated steel or aluminium that is engraved or etched and then chromed. A cylinder is required for each colour, usually 4 (CMYK.)

Similar to other printing methods, the paper is passed over the cylinders, being dried between each, to build up the image. Rotogravure is an industrial print process, producing consistently high-quality images for a large number of impressions. Not suitable for short-runs.

Photochrom Printing

Think of this as half-photography, half-printing. It produces those very vivid, slightly unreal photos and was widely used before colour photography was available.

Coloured gels were used to project the image onto tablets of stone and the images etched, to produce a stone based printing tablet. Between 4 and 19 of these tablets were produced for a single picture and then used with up to 19 different coloured inks to print the image.

The tablet of lithographic limestone is coated with a light sensitive coating. A reversed half-tone negative is then pressed against the coating and exposed to daylight causing it to harden. The coating is then washed in turpentine solutions to remove the unhardened bitumen and retouched.

This effect would be easily faked. Certainly easier than trying to reproduce the technique.

Hexachrome©

Using 6 colours instead of the usual 4 means that the colour spectrum / gamut can be increased. It allows enhanced visual impact as well as allowing for special colours to be introduced to a print run.

Spot Colour

Spot colours are pre-mixed, true-colour inks used for printing. The CMYK method builds up the colour on the paper using various amounts of the corresponding inks.

The benefits of spot colours is the quality of the finish, and getting a specific result. Some colours(mainly shades of purple in my experience) struggle to print well in CMYK, particularly if used as block colour, leaving you with an uneven tone.

…and start using LinkedIn

Some of you may have been directed from Getting the most out of LinkedIn, if so, thanks for sticking with me.

For those who have just joined us, this section is a quick guide on how to use LinkedIn effectively once you’ve got you’re profile and everything else set up. Even if you have it may be worth having a quick glance just to see if you’ve already done everything. Don’t worry, it’s pretty much all in bullet-points.

LinkedIn. Now what?

There’s quite a bit going on in LinkedIn, more than it immediately appears as some of the really useful features are tucked away.

I’ll go through the majority of things for you but as is my style, I’ll only go into them briefly so the points I’m trying to make aren’t lost. Now see the menu bar at the top? We’re heading there. I’ll point out the navigation to certain areas from there. Onwards…

LinkedIn Answers

MORE > ANSWERS

This is probably my favourite part of LinkedIn. Be warned, it’s very easy to get addicted to it and spend far too much time here. You shouldn’t have any trouble finding your way around here. What you should be starting with is the ‘Ask a Question’ box, and the advanced answers search.

Asking Questions

1. Put a short question here, and then hit next
2. Clarify your question. make sure other people can make sense of it
3. Add relevant categories. It can be removed if it isn’t
4. Make sure it’s not recruiting, promoting or job seeking. Sometimes a grey area if you’re asking for advice about one of those things.
5. Ask your question
6. If you like, send it to your contacts. I prefer to just open it to everyone.

That’s it. With any luck you’ll start to receive useful responses and maybe a tiny bit of spam.

Your question will then be open for 7 days (you can extend this) at which point it is closed. You then have the option to choose a best answer, several good answers or just be done with it. Good etiquette to award people with good/best answers if you feel they’ve earned it.

Answering Questions

Right, haul yourself over to ‘Advanced Answers Search’, it’s to the right of ‘Answers Home’. Here you can perform searches for certain questions by keyword or category. If you’re a true Renaissance man you can just hit search and it will return everything. If you’re gunning for those expertise points try ticking the ‘Show only unanswered questions’.

Alternatively, subscribe to individual category RSS feeds and let them come to you. You can do this by going to the Answers home page and selecting a category on the right-hand side and you’ll spot it, again on the right-hand side.

Expertise Points?

Glad you asked. You can earn expertise by answering questions with helpful, considered answers. You’ll notice this when you start taking part yourself.

My Q&A

Here you can see which questions you’ve asked, and those you’ve answered. If stats are your thing there’s a mini display on the right-hand side.

Some answers to Q&A FAQs

– You can ask 10 questions per month
– Answer 50 questions per day
– Yes, the system is open to abuse but your professional reputation is at stake
– You can clarify a question you posted but not directly edit one
– You can’t delete it either, but you can close it.
– You can delete your answers and you can clarify them

Skills

MORE > SKILLS

Still in beta, this tool is to enable you to list all your skills. Admit it, we all have things we occasionally forget about and this is quite good at jogging your memory. As you search for skills it suggests new ones, lists related companies, jobs, groups and people. Neat.

Applications

MORE > GET MORE APPLICATIONS…

This feels as though it hasn’t really taken off all that well. There’s only a handful to choose from, but there again that is maybe a good thing. The Behance.net Creative Portfolio Display is quite good.

Companies

Here you can search for various companies and see a list of any you’re affiliated with. Find companies that interest you and follow them if you so wish.

Groups

Another great feature is the groups. Some have privacy settings enabled so you may have to submit a request to join. Useful to keep the riff-raff out.

Check for alumni groups and other professional groups, sign-up and get involved. it’s not simply enough just to have the badge on your profile, you should be really taking part. It’s quite fun. Share an interesting piece of news or ask for some feedback on a project.

You’ve Forgotten Something

Well I really just skipped a few things. There’s enough to keep you going for quite some time. I can suggest that you check out the jobs section, though currently the number of geographic areas where the jobs are based seem to be focussed around major and capital cities. I’m sure this will change in future.

Have a poke around and see what you can find.

Getting the most out of LinkedIn

With all the multiple different Social Media networks out there you may decide to skip some of them, particularly if you’re not sure about how they can help you. Well LinkedIn can help you. People have different thoughts about it, and many creatives and designers avoid it because they don’t see it as creative enough for them.

It’s all down to how you use it. I’m a designer and marketer myself and I’m addicted to it. It’s not stuffy and there’s plenty of ways it can help you at various stages of your career.

Getting Started

Right the, first things first you need an account:

  1. Sign-up, use your real full name
  2. You can add more than one email address to an account so why not add them all
  3. Complete your profile (something which puts people off) as fully as possible with relevant entries
  4. Add a professional picture. Creatives may be allowed some artistic license but it has to be representative of you
  5. Add a summary to really sell yourself
  6. Add your skills
  7. Import your contacts with whom you want to connect
  8. Search for other people you know
  9. Join the immediately relevant groups (e.g. Alumni, organisations etc. that you’re a member of in real life)

Self-employed? Freelancer? Company owner?

“I’m a freelancer, what should I put as ‘company’ in my LinkedIn profile?”
I hear you. At the time of writing LinkedIn doesn’t include a sensible way for you say that you’re either self-employed or a Freelancer. As a result you’ll see profiles with things like ‘SOMEONE working as a freelancer at self-employed.’

Not ideal. If you have a assumed name you work under you may want to include that. I just use my URL so I’m a ‘Designer & Marketer at www.jeffreydriver.co.uk’ A nice simple work-around and it gives a little extra promotion.

Also if you’re doing your own thing you have a little more work to do…

LinkedIn company pages

  1. Company pages, search for your company (you have to do it this way) when it doesn’t show up you have the option of creating a company page. Do it
  2. Complete all your fields. There’s a lot to do here I’m afraid, but it’s worth doing
  3. Add your product highlights. This is great and you’re allowed three of these. Add images with links to the rotating banner display
  4. Connect twitter account if you use one

Ok, I’m done. Now what?

At this point I’d suggest going through everything you’ve added and start editing and tweaking. Make sure that it all represents you in the best way possible, go through all your settings and make sure everything is how you want it. thought of someone you forgot about? Add them.

Now, before you read about how to get the most out of LinkedIn, go and put the kettle on, you’ve probably earned it. When you’ve finished your biscuit, go here…

Social Media for Creatives

As a freelancer myself I know how much you can miss having other creative minds around you to bounce ideas off when designing. This is where Social Media can help you out. It can be a pain to keep track of many Social Media channels, but there are some that are specifically geared towards professionals and creatives, and so it’s worth having a presence on the ones that are relevant to you.

DeviantArt

http://www.deviantart.com/

A very active site for creatives. All creative fields are accepted so pretty much anything goes, which is one of its downsides. Worth having a look, particularly for someone whose works covers lots of different fields.

PROS
– Large, friendly community
– People actively ‘like’ and comment of work
– All types of work are submitted
– You can sell you work

CONS
– There’s a lot of unprofessional work on there
– It feels as though the average age is quite a bit younger than your ideal audience
– There is also quite a lot of work which isn’t SFW (safe for work), and I’m not talking about artistic / tasteful nudes, but rather just pure exhibitionism. As a result I don’t use it anymore, and don’t recommend it for any serious creative.

iStock Photo

http://www.istockphoto.com

Despite the name they actually accept quite a few types of work, photography, illustration(vector), video, audio and Flash. This isn’t really a showcase for your work, it’s so you can make some money. You don’t make much per sale, a few cents, but they can add up.

PROS
– High quality work is only allowed, everything is vetted first
– They will accept submissions for different types of work
– They have affiliate programmes with other sites to promote your work further.

CONS
– Payments aren’t huge, especially after you convert it to sterling
– Submissions process is a bit longer than it should be
– Be prepared to have some good work rejected, great for quality control but annoying if you’ve spent ages submitting work.

Behance

http://www.behance.net

Another professional site, although this doesn’t seem to have such a big audience. In fact I only found it through LinkedIn as they have a useful app that allows me to show my design work on my profile.

PROS
– Lots of high-quality work which is great for inspiration
– All types of work is allowed
– Highly customisable

CONS
– Doesn’t seem to have a huge user base
– The upload system is quite a long process

LinkedIn

Ok, this isn’t one you would normally associate with design or other creative field, but it’s very useful none-the-less. At first it can be a little daunting, wondering what to do once you’re signed-up. Once you get really involved I can assure you it’s addictive.

This is meant for professionals, and it’s all about networking. Not really customisable in any meaningful way, you should get involved in the Answers and Groups sections.

PROS
– This is really a good way to promote yourself
– Just aimed at professionals
– Spam etc. is really at a minimum

CONS
– There’s a lot going on, this could be a full-time job in itself
– Some of the paid features are, in my opinion, slightly over-priced.

So what else is there?

Of course there’s other sites available, including some of the more common ones (Flickr, Tumblr, Youtube, Facebook, Twitter) but for now I’m going to assume that you’re familiar with those, and I’ll write about each of them in detail some other time.

And what about Google+? Well I thought about adding it but to be honest I’m not sure if it’s going to take off, but I’ll keep an eye on it.